An Exciting Two Days In Machu Picchu By Train
An Exciting Two Days in Machu Picchu by Train
In December 2021, I visited Machu Picchu for my first – and second! – time. I was spending a month in Peru and one of my goals was to photograph the world famous archeological site from above. Since I knew that the inclement wet season could spoil my plan, I decided to increase my odds for success by booking two visits: one in the early morning and the other in the late afternoon. Here’s my account of An Exciting Two Days in Machu Picchu by Train:
Skip To:
- Ollantaytambo
- COVID-19 Information
- The Train
- Arrival + Accommodation
- Aguas Calientes
- Afternoon in Machu Picchu
- Morning in Machu Picchu
- Takeaways
machu picchu by train
Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo
Before my two day trip to the famous Inca city of Machu Picchu, I spent some time in Ollantaytambo, a town in Peru’s Sacred Valley. Here, I acclimated to the minor time difference from California and the slightly more extreme high altitude in the Andes. Prior to arriving, I Googled multiple places to stay throughout the Valley, but decided on Ollantaytambo for two major reasons:
The first was a beautiful and historic train station hotel: El Albergue Ollantaytambo. Coincidentally, the hotel was and is still such a unique and unforgettable accommodation that it was even named one of Condé Nast Traveler’s Best Places To Go in 2023.
The second reason was that Ollantaytambo acts as the main gateway to Machu Picchu. Regardless of whether you’re trekking or taking the train, you must depart from Ollantaytambo.
While getting settled, I explored other Inca sites in the Sacred Valley, tasted chica for the first time and bought a special COVID-19 facial visor just outside of the train station.
What Is Chicha?
Chicha is a fermented corn drink, similar to beer, emerging from the Andes and Amazonia areas in South America.
Don’t drink alcohol? Order a glass of Chicha Morada, a non-alcoholic version of the drink made from red-dyed corn, azucar, cinnamon, pineapple skin and lemon.
machu picchu by train
COVID-19 Information
Peru was hit extremely hard by COVID-19 so they took more health and safety precautions than I had seen elsewhere.
To enter the country, you must provide your completed COVID-19 vaccination card or negative COVID-19 molecular test taken at a maximum of 48 hours prior to arrival. Finally, within 72 hours prior to arrival, you must register in the online form “Affidavit of Health and Geolocation Authorization“.
For Machu Picchu in 2019, I was required to double mask on the train (this meant wearing a facial visor and an approved face mask, like the KN-95)!
Universally, I’ve found KN-95 masks to be the most widely accepted face masks. Visors, on the other hand, are a bit easier and can be purchased with Peruvian soles at one of the stands near the train station – just make sure to give yourself enough time to buy these before your train departs.
Today, masking on-board the train is optional.
machu picchu by train
The Train
Departure
I met my guide, Ruben, at 8AM in the lobby of my hotel, which was already connected to the train station. I had pre-booked my private tour with Alpaca Expeditions, a locally-owned Peruvian tour operator known for their sustainability, competitive wages, dietary accommodations and safety standards.
In the thirty minutes we had before departure, Ruben double checked my passport and the remainder of my tour payment. It was also during this time that I checked my larger, month-long suitcase into the hotel’s luggage storage, prepared to pick-it-up upon return from Machu Picchu. There are strict luggage limits for both the PeruRail and Inca Rail trains.
Ruben and I then waited until I was called to board the train, where he explained that he and the other guides travel in a separate Locals-only train car and that we would meet up again at the train’s final stop in Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Town.
The Train Ride
Soon, my ticket, passport and luggage were being checked by PeruRail staff and we were on our way.
I had chosen to ride on the PeruRail Expedition car. This was the least expensive of their offerings, but since the trip was so short, I felt it unnecessary to upgrade. And turns out, this was a smart move! On the return journey, PeruRail offered me a free upgrade to their Vistadome train. There, I enjoyed better views of the surrounding area and a complimentary show. Traveling solo has its perks!
During both hour and fifteen minute trips, we made a few local stops while the intercom provided information on each of the towns, ruins and flora we passed. It’s a scenic train ride – full of orchids, bromeliads and ferns!
machu picchu by train
Arrival + Accommodation
Checking-In
I met back up with Ruben after arriving at the train station and we began to weave our way towards my hotel for the night: Jaya Suite Machu Picchu.
Touring with Alpaca Expeditions was seamless, as they took care of booking my hotel in advance and facilitated the check-in process for me. Ruben was more than helpful the entire way. After I was all set with my room number and key, he gave me about an hour of free-time to settle in before we’d meet back up for lunch.
The Room
My room at Jaya was much larger than I anticipated. I had a Double Suite Room with a view of the Aguas Calientes River.
The standouts of the room were definitely the colorfully designed bedding and the bathroom’s jacuzzi style tub. My only complaint about the accommodation was that the running water in the hotel was a noticeable brown color if it collected in the sink or tub. However, I chalked this up to the time of year and location, vowing to take a more thorough shower once I had made it to my next hotel in Cusco.
The Breakfast
Outside of the room amenities, I had a wonderful breakfast with a view on the hotel’s top floor the following morning. Jaya offers guests complimentary fresh juices, hot drinks, eggs, vegetables, sausages, fruits and breads.
Secret Tip:
Peru’s tap water isn’t safe for drinking, but most hotels will provide you with two complimentary bottled waters at the start of you stay.
machu picchu by train
Aguas Calientes
Aguas Calientes
After settling into my hotel, I met back up with Ruben for some lunch and light exploring. We had time to kill before our first visit to Machu Picchu that afternoon!
I soon realized that the town itself is definitely just there for tourism. Although small, it’s primarily made up of hotels, hostels, restaurants souvenir shops, and a market, located just outside of the train station. There are a few small photo-ops for entertainment around town too.
I wasn’t expecting much from our two days in town, but I did walk away with one new favorite memory: the stray dog pictured above! Like many of the towns and cities throughout the Andes, Aguas Calientes is home to quite a number of strays. On our second day, this little guy ended up following me around until we had to board the train back to Ollantaytambo. Had I not already had a senior dog to take care of back home nor an extra three weeks traveling through the country, I may have found a way to adopt him!
Restaurants
I tried a few restaurants in Aguas Calientes, but out of them all, I had the best time at Mapacho Craft Beer and Peruvian Cuisine.
Not only did the restaurant have an unbeatable view of the Urubamba River, but they also offered live music from a local band. Mapacho also had great drinks, with it being the one spot in town to order a Mimosa, a drink which, to my dismay, most locals had unfortunately not heard of! I ended up eating at Mapacho twice, first ordering the quinoa with vegetables and alpaca and then the chicken empanada.
machu picchu by train
Afternoon in Machu Picchu
The Bus Ride
Closer to mid-afternoon, it was finally time to visit Machu Picchu. We queued up in line at the bus station and waited maybe 15 minutes total before I showed my ticket and boarded the bus.
The bus ride was about 5.5 miles and curved up along Hiram Bingham Road. All-in-all, it lasted around 20 minutes. It was about this time that I noticed there were also steep stairs along the winding path of the road.
Ruben mentioned that some tourists wish to climb up from town instead of taking the bus, similar to how many tourists take multi-day treks into Machu Picchu. For me though, let’s just say I was extremely thankful for the bus on that humid December afternoon!
The Entrance
Soon enough, we arrived at the entrance. Here was where we found the gift shop, the only available bathrooms and a line to get into the archaeological city. We took a quick pit stop before making our way inside.
Circuit 2
Once past the entrance, Ruben opened up a map and we picked which of Machu Picchu’s four circuits would be best for our afternoon visit. Since afternoons are less crowded, we thought it best to go for Circuit 2, the longest and typically most popular of the available circuits.
Maybe it was the humid afternoon weather, maybe it was not quite knowing what to expect, but Circuit 2 immediately took my breath away – both literally and figuratively. The beginning of the trail began with a zig-zag hike to the highest point on the hill: the upper terraces. So, we trudged our way up the Inca stairs to a most spectacular view.
We spent a bit of time at the top, marveling the sights. To our amusement, we found not one, not two, not even three, but four different llamas lazing about and eating grass. I’ve never found animals quite like this on top of other world famous archeological sites, but in Machu Picchu, llamas are encouraged to roam freely. They’ve supported a large part of the local economy since even before the Incas built Machu Picchu and still continue to do so today.
After visiting the high upper terraces, we slowly made our way down to La Puerta del Sol, the city’s main gateway. I remember thinking how the view on our walk was even more incredible than it was from above, if you can believe it – and so we made plenty of stops for photos!
Next, we walked through the city – leisurely exploring the granite quarry area, Sacred Main Square, the Intihuatana, the Sacred Rock and the Room of Mirrors. Walking around these areas, I could not believe our luck. We were blessed with an almost empty archeological site to explore. Part of me still thinks that we lucked out because tourism still wasn’t back to 100% from the pandemic, but if I’m ever lucky enough to visit Peru again, I’d certainly visit Machu Picchu during a winter afternoon.
A Quick Look at Huayna Picchu
With some extra time before the site closed, we ended the circuit with a quick jaunt up the path to Huayna Picchu. While we didn’t buy add-on tickets nor would we be hiking up this incredibly steep mountain, Ruben said we can head over a ways for a closer look. It was a fun sight to see and I’m so glad that Ruben was able to showed me this additional bit of the Machu Picchu area!
machu picchu by train
Morning in Machu Picchu
Circuit 4
The following morning, we left the Jaya Hotel noticing that we barely escaped the rain that drenched Aguas Calientes overnight. We had been lucky.
Since it had passed, Ruben told me he was convinced that the sun would hold while inside the site. The morning kicked off similarly to the afternoon prior – starting with a bus ride up the mountain and a short bathroom break before entering.
This time, however, Ruben and I were set on exploring Circuit 4, Machu Picchu’s second longest route covering the lower terraces, Temple of the Sun, House of the Inca, and a few of the same locations from day before.
Magic at the Lower Terraces
We quickly ascended up to the “lower” terraces, which were actually situated higher than the main entrance, but lower than the upper terraces from the day before.
I thought the day before was beautiful, but I was still unprepared for the sights I was about to see. Wisps of cloud that had encircled the city were slowly dissipating under the rising sun. I’ve been to a lot of fantastic places around the world, but I’d never been anywhere as mystical as Machu Picchu felt under that sunrise. I quickly copied the view into memory, knowing it would forever live as of those secret moments where you had to actually be there and to truly understand the magic.
House of the Inca
It took a bit of time, but eventually I peeled myself back from the lower terrace view and followed Ruben down the mountain and into the city. Being on the second bus that morning, we mostly had the site to ourselves again. And it was just as wonderful, if not even more so due to the crisp morning air keeping us cool under the rising humidity.
This time around, we visited the former royal residence, or the House of the Inca. I loved seeing and comparing it against the rest of the city’s living quarters. Similar to the joy I get while viewing antique furniture and vintage wardrobes in museums, I’ve always found the domestic architecture to be the among the most fascinating. I love learning how people, no matter their station, had lived.
machu picchu by train
Takeaways
Having visited Machu Picchu twice on back-to-back days, here are my main takeaways:
Bring your passport! You can get a Machu Picchu stamp before leaving on the bus. Additionally, your passport is required for entry, in addition to your ticket.
If visiting during the Wet Season and time permits, plan a night in Aguas Calientes so you can experience both an afternoon and a morning in Machu Picchu.
If visiting during the Wet Season and time is limited, visit in the afternoon – and try to go in the last hour slot available.
The longer Circuits (Circuit 2 and 4) are both amazing, but I preferred Circuit 2 for fewer crowds. The lower terraces of Circuit 2 also had some phenomenal views!
Take your time exploring if you’re on a private tour! The crowds ebb and flow with groups, so even if certain sections feel crowded at the moment, chances are that you’ll have a spot all to yourself in just a few moments.
Wear light pants and an airy long sleeve top. Despite the humidity, they are easy to explore in and will keep you from getting bug bites!
Don’t forget sunglasses! Machu Picchu is a high altitude city and much brighter than you’re probably used to.
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