Sumba, Indonesia: The Island You Haven’t Heard Of (But Should Know)

August 20, 2025 by jordangassner

I just returned from Sumba, a remote island in Indonesia that even some of the most seasoned travelers I know hadn’t heard of. When I told friends, family, and coworkers my plans, the most common response was, “Where?”

And that’s exactly the point. Sumba is one of Indonesia’s best-kept secrets! It’s a place where waterfalls still require muddy jungle hikes, beaches stretch for miles without a single tourist in sight, and daily life in villages feels untouched by the chaos of mass tourism. It’s the kind of place that makes you rethink everything you thought you knew about travel today.

Why You’ve Probably Never Heard of Sumba

Part of Sumba’s mystery comes down to geography. Tucked east of Bali and Lombok, it’s technically not far, but it feels like worlds apart. There are no direct international flights to the island, so most travelers arrive via Bali before catching a short domestic hop to one of Sumba’s airports in Tambolaka or Waingapu.

Once you land, you’ll quickly realize this isn’t Bali. Instead of smoothie bars and scooters for rent, petrol is sold in old plastic bottles outside people’s homes, water buffalos, chickens, and goats wander freely, and kids wave and shout as they walk home from school. The infrastructure is simple, but the reward is authenticity you rarely find elsewhere!

Why It’s Worth the Effort

It’s hard to describe the feeling of standing at a beach like Mandorak, watching fishing boats return against a backdrop of cliffs, with no other tourists around. Or swimming at Tanggedu Waterfall, which sits inside a canyon carved out by the turquoise water. My days here felt like a string of small epics: a dinner at Julang, where visiting chefs from Paris served a long-table meal that could have been a scene from an Agatha Christie novel; an impromptu stop in the village of Waikaroko where a local family invited me in to tour their home; the spotting a group of wild horses grazing in the savanna!

While a lot of travel hot spots around the world have curated travel “experiences” you can sign-up for and know exactly what you’re going to get, Sumba is a simple place full of unexpected, yet magical travel moments: often quiet, sometimes challenging, and always unforgettable!

Not yet convinced? Here’s my 7 Reasons Sumba, Indonesia Belongs on Your Bucket List.

What Surprised Me the Most

What struck me most about Sumba is how easily adventure threads through daily life. I drank tea in the traditional village of Yaru Wora while parangs (which are everyday field tools here) rested at people’s sides. On the way to Matayangu Waterfall, I edged across a moss-slick log to ford a river, a crossing that stirred up my memories of an old injury and tested my nerves! Another day, I scrambled down a steep jungle hillside and over boulders to reach the hidden Mbwana Beach. Each moment nudged me just past my comfort zone… and each was absolutely worth it!

What Travelers Should Know Before Going

Sumba isn’t a place to arrive unprepared. Cash rules everything from entry fees to fresh coconuts hacked open at waterfall parking lots! Tides shape the day, making certain beaches accessible at one hour and completely off-limits the next. And forget public transport or hiring a motorbike. The roads here are rough and finding petrol can often be unreliable. The best way to explore is by hiring a driver or joining a tour.

Sumba isn’t polished. It isn’t predictable. And that’s exactly what makes it so extraordinary. This island asks you to trade ease for authenticity, and in return it gives you empty beaches, untamed landscapes, and a glimpse of Indonesia before the crowds.

If you’re curious about what more to expect before you go, my next post dives into everything you should know about traveling to Sumba, from logistics to etiquette and the mistakes I learned the hard way.