The Most Beautiful Beaches in Sumba, Indonesia: Where You Should Swim, Surf & Watch the Sunset
The Most Beautiful Beaches in Sumba, Indonesia: Where You Should Swim, Surf & Watch the Sunset
Sumba’s coastline was one of the biggest surprises of my trip. The beaches aren’t lined with warungs or loungers. There aren’t smoothie bowls or surf schools on the sand. Instead, the island is full of quiet, raw stretches of coastline where the tides shift dramatically throughout the day and the horizon is unusually wide.
Most of the beaches below were places I visited in between waterfall hikes, traditional village stops, or long drives across the island. Some I reached in the early morning when there wasn’t a single footprint. Others were glowing at sunset with just a few local families around. If you’re planning a trip to Sumba, these are my recommendations of which you should prioritize:
Watu Bela Beach
The drive to Watu Bela is rough, but once you park and walk across the grassy field toward the beach, the coastline opens up in a really striking way. I arrived in the late afternoon, shortly before sunset and this was the only beach on my trip where I saw other travelers, although the soft white sand still felt mostly empty except for a few footprints along the water! The beach here has bright turquoise water, and dramatic white cliffs on both sides. I swam in the water for a short while before the sun went too far down. It was both warm and calm, perfect for an afternoon dip!
There used to be a small cave under the white cliff that you could crawl into, but the passage into the cave had sadly collapsed before my trip to Sumba. That said, the hill above is easily accessible and just a short walk up from the beach. It’s perfect for picnicking or catching the sunset and view of the surrounding coastline.
What to Know for Visiting:
Location: West Sumba Regency
Cost: Varies depending on your guide/transportation (often set up by your accommodation and distance to the beach)
Parking: IDR 10-30K*
Facilities: Locals often sell fresh coconuts here, but otherwise, there are no facilities on this beach
Distance/Hike: About 0.25 miles from the parking area to the beach or hill just next to it
Physical Difficulty: Easy-Moderate
Best Time to Visit: Late afternoon to sunset
Secret Tip: There’s a secret cave under the cliff face that you used to be able to venture into, but it has been closed off from falling rocks. That said, you can still take a peak from outside along the cliff face to see the cavern inside.
Why It Stands Out: Soft sand, white rocky cliffs housing a former seacave, a hilltop view of the surrounding coastline
Mandorak Beach
Mandorak Beach sits near Waikuri Lagoon in Southwest Sumba Regency. The white sand beach itself is compact and framed by dramatic cliffs. I visited Mandorak during high tide, which meant the waves were crashing hard into the cliffs and the cove wasn’t swimmable at all. Even so, it’s a stunning spot. The turquoise water funnels into the cove in these intense, foamy bursts. This is also where local fishermen enter and exit, so you’ll usually see colorful wooden boats lined up along the sand, one of the most beautiful, everyday scenes on the island.
What to Know for Visiting:
Location: Southwest Sumba Regency
Cost: Varies depending on your guide/transportation (often set up by your accommodation and distance to the beach)
Parking: IDR 10-30K*
Facilities: There are no facilities at the beach. Come prepared with a towel and any other beach supplies you need
Distance/Hike: N/A
Physical Difficulty: Easy
Best Time to Visit: Low Tide
Secret Tip: If you don’t want to pay for a guide and driver, Mandorak can be easily visited by biking from Cap Karoso (bikes are available at the resort for guests to use). Otherwise, I recommend combining with a day trip to Waikuri Lagoon.
Why It Stands Out: A dramatic fishbowl-like beach, perfect for lounging and spotting local fishing boats
Kerewei Beach
Kerewei has a slow, surf-town energy without being a town at all. It’s known for its waves, and while I didn’t surf in Sumba, this is the beach that came up over and over again from locals and other travelers anytime the word “surf” entered the conversation. This was also my first ever visit to a black sand beach and it was equally parts stunning as it was tranquil.
What to Know for Visiting:
Location: West Sumba Regency
Cost: Varies depending on your guide/transportation (often set up by your accommodation and distance to the beach)
Parking: Most likely free!
- I didn’t have to pay to visit Kerewei during my trip to Sumba, but I’m not sure how long the beach will continue to stay free as there’s a large resort and surf camp that are based here!
Facilities: There are no facilities on the beach itself, but ALAMAYAH resort is just a short walk away and has a restaurant and restroom onsite.
Distance/Hike: N/A
Physical Difficulty: Easy
Best Time to Visit: Medium or High Tide (Kerewei’s Tide Forecast can be found HERE!)
Secret Tip: Stop by ALAMAYAH resort for lunch! I wasn’t a guest of the hotel, but I was still able to enjoy a wonderful meal (and dessert!) here before visiting Kerewei. If you’re not a guest, I recommend calling or emailing ahead to make sure they will accommodate you.
Why It Stands Out: It’s Sumba’s only easily-accessible black sand beach, and great for surfing!
Mbawana Beach
Mbawana was one of the most beautiful beaches I saw in Sumba. The drive is long and the stairs down to the beach are quite steep, but once you reach the sand, it feels like you’re standing in front of one of the island’s icons. The rock formations here are massive and the light at sunset turns everything a warm copper color.
What to Know for Visiting:
Location: Southwest Sumba Regency
Cost: Varies depending on your guide/transportation (often set up by your accommodation and distance to the beach)
Parking: IDR 10-30K*
Facilities: There are no facilities at the beach. Make sure to wear hiking shoes with good grip as you will need to descend and climb back up some rugged natural stairs along the cliffside to get to this beach.
Distance/Hike: 300 steep steps
Physical Difficulty: Difficult
Best Time to Visit: Visit early in the morning or around 4-5 p.m. when the tide is low, otherwise the water will covers the shore. Also, try to avoid visiting on rainy days as the stairs down to the beach can be slippery!
Secret Tip: Come with a local guide While I didn’t feel unsafe here, I’ve heard this area can be dangerous for tourists.
Why It Stands Out: Dramatic, rocky scenery and an off-the-beaten-path experience perfect for lounging about
Purukambera Beach
A calm East Sumba beach lined with trees and usually visited for picnics and quiet afternoons. The water is gentler here than on the west coast and the wide, open coastline with tall grasslands behind it is perfect for horseback riding along the beach.
What to Know for Visiting:
Location: East Sumba Regency
Cost: Varies depending on your guide/transportation (often set up by your accommodation and distance to the beach). If you stay at Cemara Beachfront Suites like I did, you will be able to visit this beach for free.
Parking: IDR 10-30K*, but if you’re staying at a nearby
Facilities: There are no facilities at the beach.
Distance/Hike: Visitors can park right along the beach
Physical Difficulty: Easy
Best Time to Visit: Early afternoon, before late afternoon – dusk.
Secret Tip: Plan your horseback riding excursion in advance (this can usually be done with your accommodation).
Why It Stands Out: Calm waters for swimming and horseback riding on the beach
Walakiri Beach
Walakiri is where everyone goes for sunset, and after experiencing it myself, I get why. The mangroves here twist into shapes that look almost animated, and at low tide, they reflect perfectly across the wet sand. It’s the closest thing Sumba has to a crowded beach, but the atmosphere is still quite relaxed and local. You can swim here, though, I recommend going a bit further out to avoid any pointed mangrove branches and edges that reside closer to the shore.
What to Know for Visiting:
Location: East Sumba Regency
Cost: Varies depending on your guide/transportation (often set up by your accommodation and distance to the beach)
Parking: IDR 15K*
Facilities: There is one local restaurant at the beach with some tables in the shade where you might be able to get a Bitang, but there are no bathrooms onsite.
Distance/Hike: Visitors can park right along the beach, though there is a very small sand drop-off to get to the water.
Physical Difficulty: Easy-Medium
Best Time to Visit: Sunset daily
Secret Tip: Arrive about 45 minutes before sunset. Bring small bills for parking. Be careful of pointed mangrove branches while wading through the water.
Why It Stands Out: Mangrove trees growing directly in the ocean!
Nihiwatu Beach
This beach sits directly in front of NIHI Sumba, one of the most famous hotels in Indonesia. Access is limited to resort guests, but the coastline itself is stunning. Think massive waves, wide sand, and dramatic sunsets. This is also a lovely beach to swim, snorkle, or just lounge around at.
What to Know for Visiting:
Location: West Sumba Regency
Cost: Must be a guest at NIHI Sumba
Parking: N/A
Facilities: Hotel facilities onsite.
Distance/Hike: None.
Physical Difficulty: Easy
Best Time to Visit: Anytime.
Why It Stands Out: Local Sumbanese horses gallop down the beach once a day, and guests may wade, splash, and play in the saltwater waves alongside them.
*At time of writing.
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